Hive Stands
Overview
Typical Langstroth Hive Parts
The hive stand is designed to get the colony's hive boxes off the ground. This helps with preventing wood rot, and also helps with ventilation for the hive.
A good design goal is to put the hive around 16-18 inches off the ground. At this height, pests such as skunks and raccoons must rise up on their hind legs, exposing their belly to the bees for stinging. Do note that a hive stand which is too high may be problematic for persons of shorter stature. My granddaughter has trouble with inspecting the 5th medium box (during the nectar flow), and we have our stands at 16 inches.
Notes on Making One
The stand must:
- Provide a sturdy surface on which to set the hives. A fully-loaded 10-frame hive (3 medium brood boxes + 2 medium honey supers) can weigh 300-400 lbs.
- Provide a somewhat level surface on which to set the hives. The goal is to have the fronts of the hives tilted down very slightly so that rain does not run into the hive.
Nice Hive Stand
Image courtesy Steve's Bees
The bee stand should also provide space for setting the hive components as you break down the hive for inspections. Placing the components on the stand limits the ability for critters on the ground to get into your hive boxes, and is easier on your back.
A stand designed to hold 3 hives works well when it has only 2 atop it. This way, the space for the 3rd hive can be used to set the pieces down. The picture to the left shows a good example of space for this on the stand. The plan below for a Hive Stand Plan for a Two Hives is another option.
If you are working your bees with more than one person (e.g., with your children or grandchildren), I recommend you put 2 hives on a 3-hive stand. You need space to work around the hive as you do your activities. As we are taught, you should not stand in front of the entrance, so you need space to work them from the sides and back.
These do not have to be elegant; 4x4s or landscape timbers set atop cinder blocks can be used for this purpose.
There is a link below for plans to make one which works well for a single hive. This is the design used by my club for the hives at the training apiary. It provides access on both sides and the back, whilst also limiting the need to stand in front of the hive.
I use pressure treated wood for mine as there is certainly ground contact. The treatment of the wood is not best for the bees, but they don't seem to hang out on the stands anyway.
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Disclaimer: eMail comments to me at BeekeepingBoK @ Gmail.com. The process of beekeeping can cause injury or be a health hazard unless proper precautions are taken, including the wearing of appropriate protective equipment. |