Parts

Qty

Wooden parts

• Top bar

1

• Bottom bar

1

• Side bars

2

Wax Foundation

1

Eyelets

• Medium frame
• Deep frame, 3 holes
• Deep frame, 4 holes

 
4
6
8

Staples - 18 gauge, 7/32” wide, 1.5” long

2

Brad Nails - 18 gauge, 1” long

6

Brad Nails - 18 gauge, 1/4” - 5/8" long

4

Tack Nails - 1/4 - 3/8" long

6

Frame Wire, 26 gauge

• Medium frame
• Deep frame, 3 holes
• Deep frame, 4 holes

 
42”
61”
84”

Step 1 - Remove the wedge bar

Top Bar for
wired wax
foundation

The first thing to do is remove the wedge from the top bar. You can note in the picture to the right that a small part of the wood is left holding it in place. The two parts are shown in the picture to the left: the top bar (blue), and the wedge (green). The gray block represents the blade cutting them apart.

The wedge (the green part) can be broken away from the top bar, or cut off using a knife. I prefer to use my table saw (with a very thin blade), and cut it off as noted in the picture to the left.

This approach provides a very clean surface on both pieces and does not require additional time to clean up the unwanted parts. The two parts need to mesh well to ensure the wax foundation is held in place well.

After getting the saw's rip fence set correctly, and the height of the saw blade, it is easy to cut many of these off in succession.

BE SURE TO KEEP YOUR BODY PARTS AWAY FROM THE SPINNING SAW BLADE. It is good to use a push stick and other safety devices when cutting these free.

Step 2 - Add the eyelets to each of the side bars.

Eyelets

Eyelet Insertion Tool

It is easier to insert the eyelets into the side bars before they are attached to the top and bottom bars.

The eyelet insertion tool shown to the right makes this significantly easier than trying to do the work by hand. Also, I have found it useful to insert the eyelet, and then tap each a little deeper into the side bar with a small mallet.

What I have found is that:

• deep frames have 3 eyelets on each side, and
• medium frames have 2 eyelets on each side.

Step 3 - Attach the side bars to the top bar

Staple Alignment
Side View

The steps are:

1. Ensure the side bars are aligned so that the eyelets are on the outside of the frame. It is not catastrophic if they are not, but moving the eyelets later is not a fun task.
2. Glue the top bar to the end bars. Be sure to glue the pieces together with all-weather glue (e.g., TiteBond III).
3. Staple or nail the parts together.
   • Add one staple, inserting it down through the top bar into the side bars. I prefer to use staples which are 18 gauge, 7/32” wide, and 1.5” long (e.g., Bostitch SX50311/2G).
   • If you use nails, two are recommended for each side.

Be sure the staples or nails go down thru the top bar and into the side bars. The picture to the right shows the proper angle for the staples to be added to the joint.

A frame assembly jig makes this quite easier, especially as it ensures the parts are kept aligned correctly.

Step 4 - Attach the side bars to the bottom bar

Nail alignment
Side view

Nail alignment
End view

The steps are:

1. Glue the bottom bar to the end bars. Again, be sure to glue the pieces together with all-weather glue.
2. Add two nails, one on either side of the slot. Staples are not recommended as they tend to crush the bottom bar. If you use an air nail gun, look for straight finish brads which are 18 gauge, 1” long (e.g., Bostitch BT1309B).

Be sure the nails go up thru the bottom bar and into the side bars. The pictures to the right shows the proper angle for the staples to be added to the joint.

Again, a frame assembly jig makes this quite easier, especially as it ensures the parts are kept aligned correctly.

Step 5 - Secure the top bar to the side bars

Nail alignment
Side view

The steps are:

1. Add one nail thru the side bars to the top bar. These are made from the side to help the top bar not come loose from the side bars when the frame is removed from the box. I prefer to use nails which are 18 gauge, 1” long (e.g., Bostitch BT1309B).

Step 6 - Add nails to affix the wires

Nail placement

On one side of the frame, add nails or tacks to the side bar. These are used to hold the wires in place.

• Use tacks or nails which have a shaft not longer than 3/8”; 1/4” is recommended. If you can get brads with big heads, they are easier to use.
• Nail them into the side bar, but not all the way. Leave about 1/8” sticking up.

Step 7 - Add the horizontal wires

The steps are:

1. Starting with the side with nails, insert the wire thru the bottom eyelet.
2. Pull the wire to the other side, and insert it thru the bottom eyelet on the other side. Pull a couple of feet of extra wire thru.
3. Insert the wire thru the top eyelet on the same side where you just pulled it thru.
4. Pull the wire to the starting side, and insert it thru the top eyelet.
5. Wrap the wire two or three times around the top brad / nail. Cut off any extra wire projecting away from the nail (this will stab your thumb later if you leave it).
6. Use a hammer to secure the top nail into place.
7. Pull the wire taut across the top, and hold it in place on the side bar opposite the nails. The wire does not have to be tight enough to be played as a banjo, but should also not sag.
8. Pull the wire taut across the bottom, and then wrap it two or three times around the bottom brad / nail. Cut off the extra wire projecting away from the nail.
9. Use a hammer to secure the bottom nail into place.

Step 8 - Add the wax foundation

Frame with
foundation

The steps are:

1. Insert the wax foundation into the frame.
   1. The part where the wires are bent over at 90° goes to the top. They are shown in the picture to the right as the black lines between the top bar (blue) and the wedge bar (green).
   2. Start by inserting the foundation into the bottom bar (purple) and then leaning it into the top bar.
   3. Do not try to press the foundation into the horizontal wires.
2. Add three to five nails thru the wedge bar to secure it to the top bar. I prefer to use nails which are 18 gauge, 5/8” long (e.g., Bostitch BT1300B).

Step 9 - Secure the wax foundation to the horizontal wires

I have found that I can use a 24 volt power supply to adequately melt the wax onto the wires. The one I use is a MeanWell LRS-100-24. These are available at a good price from Amazon or other similar sites.

The steps are:

Frame with support boards

1. Set a board on your work surface which fits between the two side bars and the top and bottom bar. This is for support.
2. Set the frame atop this board.
3. Set another board atop the frame. This board should be about the same size as the one on the bottom. You can see in the picture to the right, the brown blocks are the boards atop an below the frame's wax.

Using a power supply to melt the wax

4. Lightly press the top board down, and apply the power to the ends of the wires strung between the frame. Only apply the power for 7-8 seconds ("one Mississippi, two Mississippi, ..."). Any longer and you will cut thru the wax.

5. Be sure to disconnect the LRS-100-24 power supply from the wall outlet when you are finished.